A Guide to Pune

Text and information compiled by Kate Rathod with much help from Helen Graham. Maps by Kate Rathod. The reference for the map making is from a Pune City Maps Publication and is neither to scale or 100% accurate. However it proves an invaluable source and guide to finding your way around the city. Pictures supplied by Lynne Corrie.

The information here is not meant to be an exhaustive nor definitive guide to Pune, but to offer you some tried and trusted restaurants and hotels, along with some general information on shopping and sightseeing that may help your stay in Pune easier, particularly if it is your first visit.

There is an overview map of Pune and also 2 separate enlarged area maps of the relevant areas for you to print out and take with you. Most of the listed information in this guide is clearly marked on these maps. The listed information has been divided into the same areas as the enlarged maps. Namely: i) Shivaji Nagar ; this is the area around RIMYI. ii) Fergusson College Road (a.k.a F.C Road ), and Jangli Maharaj Road (a.k.a. J.M Road ) which also incorporates Laxmi Road in the shopping and services listings. iii) Mahatma Gandhi Road (a.k.a M.G Road ), iv) Other Areas and Further afield . There is not a separate enlarged map for this area.

Please also see the "Going to Pune a practical guide" on this website by Kirsten Agar Ward.

Maps:

Overview of central Pune	Shivaji Nagar Area. FC and JM Road areas	MG Road Area
click on maps for enlargements

Before you go:

You must apply for classes RIMYI. You cannot just turn up!
Please see details on how to apply on this website.
Do not go until you have a confirmed place.

How to apply:

Classes at the Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute in Pune
Members who wish to attend classes at the RIMYI must apply through the IYA (UK).
A minimum of 8 years' Iyengar yoga practice is required before applying.

- more information about classes at the RIMYI
- application form

Once you have your confirmation you should get your Indian visa (6 month tourist), making sure you have 6 months minimum on your passport after the visa has expired. You can apply for your visa yourself by printing off a form from the High Commission of India website (http://www.hcilondon.net), checking the opening times (beware of Indian bank holidays, the website will have these details), and going down to the Aldwych, London (Edinburgh, Scotland) yourself, with the fee in cash, passport sized photos, and names and addresses of 2 contacts in India (the names and addresses are for emergency contacts should you go missing! They are not for referees. Read the necessary form requisites. If you go unprepared, you may have to re-apply, or wait longer than usual.), or you can pay an agency to get your visa for you - ask your travel agent.

Check what immunisations you will need:

Your GP practice nurse should be able to tell you what jabs you need, and give them to you for free if you make an appointment. They will also recommend malaria tablets, but you will need to buy these from a chemist if you choose to take them.

Accommodation:

It will be easier for you if your accommodation is booked before arriving. See details below of hotels and contacts for flats. You will need to book well ahead as the popular hotels can get booked up quickly with fellow visiting yoga students.

Useful items to consider taking:

The air pollution in Pune is high. A newspaper article on the traffic in Pune ( Times of India, October 2005) estimated that 284,000 vehicles criss-cross Pune each day, and in addition to this, the city's vehicle population is 1,224,000. As you may be moving around the city a bit to eat out or sight-see, you could invest in a cycling mask to cut the amount of heavy particles you breathe in on your trip. Keep that sore throat at bay! January is high pollution season, monsoon (July - October) is the low.

To help avoid getting sick from the change of water, climate etc. I have found Citricidal invaluable in keeping a stomach strong and healthy. Citricidal is made from grapefruit seed extract and has the ability to inhibit the growth of parasites, fungi and bacteria. It is available in liquid or capsule form and can be bought from Health food stores in the UK. The liquid form can be added to fruit juice or water whenever you go out to eat. Take 3 times a day, a couple of days before you go and during your trip. See http://www.gfex.com/citricidal.htm for more information.

Taking Umeboshi (salt plums) and Kudzu (starch made from the root of Japanese knotweed) has been useful for some in the case of a sore stomach. Kudzu is soothing for the intestines. Dissolve in water and boil it for 3-4 minutes until it is thick and clear. If you are unable to cook the Kudzu, you can just dissolve the chunks on your tongue. Do buy authentic Kudzu, and avoid the bleached and sweetened commercial varieties.

If you are staying in a hotel you may want to take a bag of quality muesli for breakfast (or late supper after class when a full meal is too much), though you can buy it from Maharashtra stores and Dorabjees (see maps). A jar of honey (which is generally of a poor quality in India, though good from Mahabaleshwar!) and/or marmite, to have on toast, as a snack etc.

Don't take too many clothes. There are some great clothes shops in Pune which you will want to buy from! You may find you are more comfortable in Indian style clothes which are light and cool.

Arrival in Mumbai:

If you are staying in Mumbai get a pre-paid taxi from the desk just outside the arrivals hall to your hotel. These fares are good. You will be given a receipt with your taxi's number plate written on it. Outside you find the relevant taxi. Change just enough money at the airport to get to Pune. The exchange rate at the airport is not very competitive.

If you are staying in Mumbai first, there are numerous hotels throughout the city. Please refer to a published guidebook for choices, or speak to regular visitors for their favourites.

Getting to Pune from Mumbai:

Some hotels will pick you up from the airport, so ask when you book your accommodation.

Sandy's (020 2447 1464) and KK's (2422 4267, 2422 5510, 2422 5520) are taxi services to and from Pune. They will pick you up from the airport for around Rs800, but they will want to fill the car so you may have to wait for the next flight.

Harshad Kanegaonkar ( harshtravels@gmail.com mobile: 98227 77471) runs a private car service and will pick you up from the airport. Cost is around Rs2700, so you may want to share the cost with others.

A private car/taxi will cost you around Rs2700, so it would be cheaper to hire one in a group. Approximate travelling time by road is 3 hours.

You can fly from Mumbai to Pune with Indian Airlines or Jet Airways. The domestic terminal is some distance from the international one, but you may be transferred free of charge.

By train you will have to book the tickets in advance and the trains go from CST (VT) or Dadar. Ask your travel agent in the UK if they can book the tickets for you. The Indian Rail Pass agents in London can be contacted on 020 8903 3411. You will need to get a pre-paid taxi from the airport to CST (VT) or Dadar.

By far the cheapest method is by bus , and not necessarily any slower. Air-conditioned (AC) or non-AC buses leave from the Dadar - Pune bus stand frequently and cost around Rs300/125. You will need to get a pre-paid taxi from the airport to the Dadar - Pune bus stand. You can be dropped off at either Shivaji Nagar, in Pune (good if you are staying in that area) or Pune railway station.

Phoning Home and Dialling code:

Pune city - 020. From the UK you would need to dial 00 91 20 + the relevant numbers as shown with entries.

To call the UK; 00 44 + the area code, but less the '0' + the number you require.

By far the cheapest way to call home is from the numerous phone booths around the city. Look out for STD/ISD. You can watch the call total clocking up on a screen. Very reasonable prices, and much cheaper than calling from a mobile, or home calling you.

Money:

Indian Rupees (Rs) varying between 70 and 80Rs to the pound from year to year.

Numerous money changing places, eg; Thomas Cook, American Express (see maps).

A number of banks (eg: Vyasa, on F.C Road) have hole in the wall facilities for you to use your credit cards for cash withdrawals.

Airport exchange rates can be low, so just change a small amount to tide you over until you get to your destination.

There is a money changing facility on the ground floor at RIMYI, after the 9 - 11am class, with competitive rates.

Hotel safes are generally exceptionally safe and reliable for money and valuables to be kept.

Registering at RIMYI:

The office hours are: Monday, Tuesday and Friday from 9.00am - 11.00am, Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 4.00pm - 6.00pm. The office is closed on Sunday.

You will need to take your letter of acceptance, passport, 2 x passport sized photographs of yourself, a photocopy of your personal details page and also the India Visa page of your passport, and the outstanding balance for the fees in rupees or dollars.

Get around by rickshaw:

The more honest rickshaw drivers have a rate card to work out the old meter readings into present day fares.

Hotels:

All rates shown for hotels are approximate and range from single non-AC to deluxe AC (where available) generally for the room rather than per person. The rates should give you an idea of the level of 'comfort'. You may be able to negotiate a discount for a one month stay. Most hotels will add on a 4% 'luxury tax'.

Shivaji Nagar area -

The Ambassador - 1125, Model Colony.
Tel : 2566 0623/24/25. Fax: 2566 0622.
E-mail: ambassador@iqara.net
Rates: Rs1400 - 2500.

The Ambience - 1105/2, Near Telephone Exchange, Lakaki Road, Model Colony.
Tel : 2566 2751/2/3/4. Fax: 5662755.
Rates: Rs1700 - 2150.

The Chetak - 1100/2, Model Colony. Tel : 2565 2681. Fax: 2565 4078.
E-mail: chetak@pn2.vsnl.net.in
Rates: Rs800 - 1000.

Sheetal - Dyaneshwar Paduka Chowk. Tel : 2613 7964.
Rates: Rs800 - 1050.

Best Western - The Pride Hotel - (5*) 5 University Road. Tel : 2553 4567/0444.
Fax: 2553 3228. E-mail: pride@giaspn01.vsnl.net.in Web: www.pridegroup.com
Rates: Expensive.

Fergusson College Road (F.C Road) / Jangli Maharaj Road (J.M Road) Area -

Ashiyana - 1198, F.C Road. Tel : 2553 8011/12/13/14. Fax: 2553 2699.
E-mail: -ashiyana@hotelashishplaza.com Web: www.hotelashishplaza.com
Rates: Rs750 - 1150.

Hotel Ashish Plaza - as above for Ashiyana.
Rates: Rs1100 - 2400.

Deccan Park - F.C Road, Opposite Vaishali eatery and next to the Ketan. Tel : 2553 1870/1.
Rates: Rs.1000, with a discount for yoga students.

Ketan - 917/19 A, F.C Road. Tel :   2565 5081/82/84. Fax: 2565 5076.
Recently refurbished, and recommended by many.
Rates: Rs650 - 950.

Kohinoor Executive - (4*) 1246 B Apte Road. Tel : 2553 2000. Fax: 2553 2447.
E-mail: ashokbihari@kokaneskohinoor.com
Rates: Rs2195 - 3300.

Oakwood - Good Luck Square (Chowk) / Bhandakar Road. Tel : 2567 0011.
E-mail: tghotels@hotmail.com Web: www.tghotels.com
Rates: Rs3200 - 4500

Park View - Ghole Road. Tel : 2553 5045.
This hotel is not placed on the maps, you will need to phone for exact location.
Rates: Rs600 - 1050.

Pathik - Off J.M Road. Tel : 2553 2085. E-mail: hotelpathik@rediffmail.com
This hotel is not placed on the maps, you will need to phone for exact location.
Rates: Rs650 - 950.

Parichay - 1199/1A F.C Road. Tel : 2553 1512.
This hotel is not placed on the maps, you will need to phone for exact location.
Rates: Rs500 - 700.

Ranjeet - 870/7 Bhandakar Road. Tel : 2565 5014/17.
This hotel is not placed on the maps, you will need to phone for exact location.
Rates: Rs650 - 2000.

Raviraj - 790 Bhandakar Road. Tel : 2567 9681/91/20. Fax: 2567 4978.
This hotel is not placed on the maps, you will need to phone for exact location.
E-mail: hotelraviraj@yahoo.com  Web: www.hotelraviraj.com
Rates: Rs950 - 1450

Rutu Gandha - Tel : 2402 9201/05. E-mail: hotelrutugandha@vsnl.net
Rates: Rs1050 - 2400.

Shreyas - 1242-B Apte Road. Tel : 2553 2023/2785/2496. E-mail: info@hotelshreyas.com
Rates: Rs600 - 1180.

Surya - (4*) 1202/3 Apte Road. Tel : 2553 1801.
This hotel is not placed on the maps, you will need to phone for exact location.
Mahatma Gandhi Road (M.G Road) Area -

Aurora Towers - 9 Moledina Road. Tel : 2613 1818. Fax: 2613 1826.
Rates: Rs6000+

Near Pune Railway Station -

Le Meridien - (5*Deluxe) Raja Bahadur Mill Road. Tel + Fax: 2605 0505/2612 2000.
Web: www.pune.lemeridien.com

Flats to Rent:

Shivaji Nagar area only -

Sushama Deo - has a flat in the tower block next door to RIMYI.
E-mail: srishti01@hotmail.com

Fiona Dewar - rents out 2 lovely flats very close to RIMYI.
E-mail: deepchandi@hotmail.com

Mrs Sharda Lakhani - 11 Kunjban Society, 473/A Hare Krishna Mandir Road.
Tel : 2565 4920.

Mataji Vishnupriya - 4D Ajit Apartments, Hare Krishna Mandir Road.
Tel : 2565 7801 / 2565 1003.

Smita Paranjape - 4 Rutica, 1098/5A, Opp. Post Office, Model Colony. Tel : 2565 1669.
E-mail: smitapark@gmail.com

Mrs. Neena Shahani - 1105/12 Madhur Jyoti, Hare Krishna Mandir Road. Tel : 2565 4109.
E-mail: mane106@hotmail.com

3rd floor flat. 2 bedrooms, each with 2 beds. 10 minutes' walk from Institute. Telephone Karishma on 0091 20 25675719, mobile 21712034, email: uknipper@gmx.de

Restaurants/Eating Places:

Most of the places listed have been tried and enjoyed. The majority of listed places are also marked on the maps.

Shivaji Nagar area -

Ambience Hotel - On the top floor of the hotel. Good food, though a little rich and more oily than other places. A little pricier than the usual restaurants. If you are in a large group, service can be slow.

Chandra - Good cheap food.

Corn Club - Fast food eat in or take away, everything uses corn as the main ingredient. Try Baby corn fingers with Schezwan sauce, or corn samosas. Usually served on a throwaway plate made from leaves!

Lalit Mahal - Good, freshly made Indian food, very reasonably priced. Try the Bhindi Fry and a Naan.

Monsoon Momos - Freshly made steamed veg or non-veg dumplings, to eat on the forecourt or have packed for take-away. Only open after 6pm.

The Pride Hotel - Pricey as expected for a 5* hotel. Indian and very plain western food should you be unlucky enough to have an upset stomach and fancy something bland.

Shravan - Indian food.

Fergusson College Road (F.C Road) / Jangli Maharaj Road (J.M Road) Area -

Asho Dining Hall - Thali.

Bakers Basket - Near the Oakwood Hotel. Good cake shop.

Barista - for your taste of the west. Coffee and snacks as per Starbucks etc.

Coffee Café - Trying to be Barista, comes fairly close.

Kamath - Delicious Indian veg food very reasonably priced. The exterior sign is in Marathi, though shines in pink neon. Lots of tables outside, and a fish tank!

Roopali - South Indian snacks.

Savera - Indian food, popular and good.

Shiv Sagar - Delicious Indian veg food. For a great cappucino, order the espresso! You can eat outside too.

Shreyas Hotel - Good place for a Thali.

Sukanta - Had an amazing Thali on Dusshera festival day. A delicious plateful of a variety of Indian treats from around the country.

Vaishali - Popular place for more South Indian snacks.

Mahatma Gandhi Road (M.G Road) Area -

Coffee House - Gets a guidebook mention, but only really worth a visit if you are in the area anyway.

Camp Mayur Dining Hall - reputedly the best thali.

Bakery - Opposite the Dining Hall. Good chocolate and walnut cake.

College Spicer Stores - In Wonderland Arcade. Sells chocolate soya milk and lovely cakes.

Other Areas and Further afield -

German Bakery - In Koregaon Park, Very delicious coffee, Masala Chai, Banana cake, Tofu burgers, fresh juices plus more. You could eat here all day! A Sunday lunch treat.

The Pyramids - Beyond Koregaon Park, with an outdoor pool and eating places.

Pizza Express - Just down from Fab India on Sassoon Road. You know what to expect.

La Pizzeria - 361 Bund Garden Road. Tel: 2612 2369/87.
Web: www.littleitalyindia.com Great Tiramisu. Will deliver.

Le Meridien - As much salad as you can eat on a Sunday, apparently. Pricey.

Shopping and Services:

Shivaji Nagar area -

Fruit and Veg market - not just a photo opportunity if you are cooking for yourself!

Supermarket - useful for cereal, tea, coffee, etc.

Om Supermarket - large well-known corner store.

Maharashtra Stores/Chemist/Photo Developing, Monginis Cakes, Monsoon Momos - all in the parade of shops just past the Toyota Showroom.

Sweetys - near the Chetak Hotel, good curd and parathas, soya milk, etc. A general store.

Chemist - next to Sweetys.

Poonam Opticians - opposite Homi Bhadha Hospital, Gokale Nagar Road. Glasses are much cheaper in India. Take your prescription along.

Seair Travels - Ms Shinde, Above the Cosmos bank. Tel: 2565 8770.

Post Office - for sending books, etc. home. Sea or air mail.

Handmade papers , note books, cards etc. - "Beooootiful"!

Prabha Thakur Batik - Tel: 2565 6145. E-mail; dimpex@hotmail.com   There is a broken red postbox just before the turning to here. The flat is signed M. Thakir. Has a lovely range of batik yoga print 'Pune' shorts, yoga mat bags, t-shirts, greetings cards, and cream coloured cotton blankets. They can arrange for the blankets to be shipped home to you.

Internet Café - Junction 96 , 'Your Friendly Internet Parlour'.

Dairy - A shady sitting place just set back from the road with a view of the lake.

HDFC Bank - Possibility for money change, easier to change at RIMYI.

Chetak Hotel - Has a money exchange service, and an STD/ISD phone booth for local and international calls.

Fergusson College Road (F.C Road) / Jangli Maharaj Road (J.M Road) and Laxmi Road Area -

Reliance Internet - next to Barista on F.C Road. Large a/c place. They encourage you to open an account with them, they also serve coffee.

Juice Café - Next to the British Library on F.C Road.

Book World - In the basement of Sagar Arcade, Nr Good Luck Chowk, on F.C Road. Great selection of books in all categories.

Vaste Tailors - Opposite Barista on F.C Road. Take along an item of clothing you love, and they will copy the style and cut for you. Also has a shop of ready-made Indian style kurtas etc. In a smaller side street off F.C Road, by Vaishali.

Sheela's Beautician - On the first floor of the Sagar Arcade. Nr Good Luck Chowk, on
F.C. Road. For waxing, pedicure, manicure, facials and massage.

British Library - A place to go and read the British papers! Closed on Mondays.

Dhere Travels - Car Rental and Goa bus ticket booking. Try for the Laxmi Queen coach service, lying down berths, single and double from approx Rs500. About 10 hours overnight from Swargate to Panaji or Mapusa (North Goa). 1 Status Chambers, 1221, Off F.C. Road (turn off past Vaishali, and past Vaste Tailors ready-mades) Tel: 2553 4374/2553 8681.

Airtel - F. C Road. Sells local chips for your mobile phone should you wish to use one locally.

Himalaya - J.M Road. Diagonally opposite from Crosswords. Pre-packaged ayuvedic remedies.

Crosswords - J.M Road. Western-style book shop with a good range of books. The English novels etc. are cheaper in India than the UK. Expect to pay around Rs400 for a standard paperback. Also sells music casettes and DVD's.

Saheli's - Laxmi Road. Material shop where you can choose fabric to be made up into clothes etc. Also sells ready-mades.

Dulhan Saris - Laxmi Road. Exquisite saris and other formal Indian wear. Not the cheapest, but the place to go if you are only ever going to have one sari!

Ranka Jewellers - Laxmi Road. Opposite Dulhan saris. Large store with gold/silver ornaments and gifts etc. Closed on Mondays, as most of Laxmi road is, but open on Sundays.

Gandhi Ashram Shop - On Laxmi Road. Handloom cotton.

Mahatma Gandhi Road (M.G Road) Area -

Karichiwallas - 4 Moledina Road. Beautiful jewellery and Patanjali statues.

Dorabjees - Moledina Road. Western-style supermarket. Great for spices to take home and interesting general goods. Also sells some western brands.

Manneys - 7 Moledina Road. 9.30 - 1.30pm + 4 - 8pm Monday to Saturday. Amazing book store. Worth a visit for book lovers.

Planet M - Moledina Road. DVD's and Videos. Includes a good selection of Bollywood titles, old and new.

Am Ex - M.G Road. Just down from the Aurora Hotel. Money Change.

The Bombay Store - 322 M.G Road. Great for gifts. Clothes, scarves, photo albums, bags, cushion covers, decorative stuff etc.

Kashmir Shop - M.G. Road. They have a selection of clothes, ornaments etc. Popular place.

Wonderland Arcade - M.G Road. 2 alley ways with a variety of shops from materials, chemists, paper and pens, etc.

College Spicer Stores - In Wonderland Arcade. Small shop selling carrot cake, soya milk etc.

Thomas Cook - On Gen. Thimmaya Road. Tel: 2634 6171/73. For money change and travels.

Other Areas and Further afield -

Fab India - Opposite Jahangir Nursing home, Sassoon Road. Tel: 2612 4820.

Web: www.fabindia.com   Beautiful Indian style clothes. Kurtas in all lengths and cotton fabric designs, silk scarves, and a selection of western style skirts, trousers etc. Also sell childrens clothes, bedsheets and covers, curtains, tablecloths etc. Well worth a visit.

Magna Book Gallery and health food shop - Just next door to Fab India.

Crosswords - In the Pizza Express open arcade, just down from Fab India. Another of the western-style book-shop chain.

Either Or - In the Pizza Express open arcade, just down from Fab India. Interesting clothes shop with beaded jewellery, bags and gift items.

Mega Zone - Tel: 2635 9168 / 2605 4008. DVD's and cassettes of Iyengar classes, workshops etc. Ask Chandru at RIMYI for more info.

Geeta Bhojawani's Shop - Tel: 2565 3937 / 9822- 34546. Web: www.inflosion.com Great gift shop with a large variety of stuff from all over India. Call and she will arrange for you to be picked up.

Tibetan art and crafts , gifts and clothing shops around the German Bakery in Koregaon Park.

Le Meridien Hotel has a swimming pool and a sun deck on the roof. You can pay a daily rate to use it.

Doctors, Dentist, Homeopathy, Ayurveda and Chemists:

Shivaji Nagar area -

For Ayurvedic treatment - Punarvasu Chikitsaaya . Tel: 2566 0066.
E-mail: globalayurveda@vsnl.net
Recognised doctors, treating, for example, rheumatoid arthritis, stress, constipation and diarrhoea.

Dr. B Sonalkar (Mrs.) - 479/7 Hare Krishna Mandir Road. Tel: 2565 5268.
Evening clinic 6pm onwards. No need to book an appointment.

Homeopath, Dr. Sanjeevai Kulkarni - Chatushringhi Chowk, Hare Krishna Mandir Road, (Nr Toyota Showrom). Tel: Home: 2566 3105, Mobile: 2111 3932. Two Clinics morning and evening, no appointment system, just turn up and wait! Home visits possible.

Chemists - i) next to Sweetys, close to the Chetak Hotel, ii) In the parade of shops just up from the Toyota Showroom.

Manohar Healing -   (See Prabha Thakur Batik under shopping and services in Shivaji Nagar area section) Japanese healing called Mari Kari, based on vibrations including chanting and hands over body.

Fergusson College Road (F.C Road) / Jangli Maharaj Road (J.M Road) Area -

Dr. Sachin Melinkeri - Chanakyapuri Building, F.C Road, Tukaram Padula Chowk.
Tel: 2553 4290. Evening clinic 6pm onwards. No need to book an appointment.

Dr. Shrenick Parmar - Speciality Dental Clinic. On F.C Road, near to Deandayal Hospital.
Tel: 2567 1583. Call after 3pm.

Other Areas and Further afield -

Ruby Hall Nursing/Hospital - Sassoon Road. Very good hospital.

Ayur Joyti - B-4 Sharduraram Road, Opposite Ruby Hall Clinic, just down from Fab India. Ayurvedic massage and doctors.

Kerala Ayurvedic Research and Rejuvination Establishment (KARE) -
A weekend away for massages etc. Near Mulshi Lake. Tel: 2544 2945 / 2611 3337.
E-mail: pkalmadi@hotmail.com  

Web: www.karehealth.com

Sightseeing:

All Areas - (see map/s)

OSHO Commune International - Koregaon Park. Bhagwan Rajneesh's famous ashram, a spiritual health club offering endless esoteric courses, and a vast residential complex with facilities worthy of a luxury hotel! You can go on a limited tour of the grounds. Would NOT recommend staying there. Read My Life In Orange by Tim Guest for an alternative view on the Guru.

Raja Kelkar Museum - Shukrawar Peth, south of Laxmi Road. Housed in a traditional Maratha house, 17,000 artworks and curios amassed over 70 years by Sri Dinkar Gangadhar who died in 1990. The collection includes carved wooden doors and windows, inkpots, nutcrackers, textiles, toys, brass lamps, noodle makers and hair combs.

Shaniwar Wada - Shivaji Road, just south of the Mula river. Once the Peshwa rulers palace in 1736, burnt down in 1828, now only the fortified walls remain, probably not worth the US$5 entry.

Pateleshvara Temple - Across the river on J.M Road. 8 th -century rock-cut Pateleshvara temple in a similar style to the gander rock temple at Elephanta (Mumbai). It is a working temple.

Saras Baug Ganesh Temple - is a moated temple situated in Peshwa Park, (9.30 - 5.30pm). Lots of food stalls set up outside in the evening.

Aga Khan Palace/Gandhi National Memorial - Ahmadnagar Road. Across the Mula River, north of the city. Once the residence of the Imasultan Muhammed Sha Khan III, built in 1892. In 1956 it became a school and in 1969 given to India by Aga Khan IV. Gandhi and his wife Kasturba (who died here), were interned by the British for almost 2 years in 1942. There is a photographic exhibition and a couple of Gandhi's personal effects.

Parvarti Hill Temple - 108 steps, panoramic views of the city, a great escape from the hustle and bustle of the dusty, traffic-choked streets. Gardens to stroll around.

Laxmi Road markets - colourful and bustling.

Outside of Pune:

Please see published guidebooks for further information on these places.

Lonavala - 62km NW of Pune. A popular weekend getaway for Mumbai city dwellers. Once a sleepy hill-station.

Khandala - 8km NW of Lonavla. Another pretty hill station town with panoramic views of the Western Ghats, lakes and dams.

Karla Cave - 11km E of Lonavla. 2 nd - 1 st century Bhuddist rock-cut cave, featuring a sculptured courtyard with a 14m high façade and a large pillared hall.

Bhaja Caves - 3m off the Karla Road. 20-odd vihara (monastery) caves supposedly dating form 200BC.

Bedsa Caves - 15km past the Karla/Bhaja turn-offs. Rarely visited because of the 3km walk from the village and the poorer quality of design and execution than the Karla.

Mahabaleshwar - 1372 metres elevation. Maharashtra's most popular hill station. Great walks and stunning panoramic views. Overcrowded during peak season (April - June), Diwali and Christmas. Up to 6 metres of rainfall during the monsoon when most places close - late-June to mid - September.